Place sugar and powdered gelatin in the saucepan and whisk to mix. Add cold wine, mix, and let rest ten minutes.
On the stove top, heat saucepan over low-medium heat, stirring, until warmed. Do not bring to a boil. There may be a small layer of white foam that you can remove with a rubber spatula or will dissipate over time.
Add a few drops of yellow food coloring and stir to combine.
Using the eyedropper, fill your molds, starting with about the first nine. Add a few drops of red food coloring to the wine gelatin mixture and stir. You are building deeper and deeper colors to add to your molds, giving you a variety of hues. Fill another nine molds. Repeat adding coloring and filling the molds until complete.
Refrigerate for an hour to set the gelatin. Gums will release from the molds easily and will keep for a week.
I make gougères often, maybe three times a week. They are the perfect bite to come out of the oven when your guests arrive and the gougères serve well with our Chardonnay.
They are simple to make and pack an elegant, impressive punch.
I have made them to varying degrees of involvement, precision, and difficulty. I most often go for this easy version, described here.